Obsolescence deprogrammed: zoom on the creators of tomorrow
Manon RIFF-SBRUGNERA l hanslucas
In reaction to the consumer society and excessive waste, the fashion reinvents itself and the design innovates with new concepts. Ethical brands and start-ups come into being, with a spirit green in the era of time.
Overdose of fast-fashion, from fast food, speed dating, perishable smartphones ... creators pioneers and new actors are inventing alternatives. Survival question! And of envy. Tomorrow's entrepreneurs are planning an eco-friendly worldless exploited and more honest. The solutions ? A fashion for sustainable textiles, solid everyday products, and a recycled architecture able to withstand the test of time.
The best-selling Canadian bestseller of Pierre-Yves McSween.
The new weekly ebdo, participative and without advertising.
New consumption patterns
The consumer society is dead. Long live virtuous consumption! in the absence of a more radical break as advocated byassociation Zero Waste France which calls for buying nothing new in 2018, or so, with a view to defend the environment and to generate "activities, jobs and local exchanges". Nearly 8,000 signatories fifteen days after its launch. Another sign at the beginning of this year is the book of a Canadian accountant become best seller. Published in France by The arenas (which also give birth to the first participatory weekly, without advertising, well named ebdo), Do you really need it? from Pierre-Yves McSween comes teasing with a good-natured humor all our purchases that could prove as useless as frustrating. He develops a anti-discovered method which turns sellers into predators, loyalty cards in vampires personal data. Within the seraglio itself fashionthe "warning triggers" were precursors. Sector forces launching trends!
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Opening of the Edelkoort Gallery on the ground floor of the prospective Trend Union agency, created by Li Edelkoort, a leading trendsetter named "Dean of Hybrid Design Studies" at Parsons Paris School and New School from New York and previously director of the Design Academy Eindhoven.
Here, a dress Comme Des Garçons, collection autumn-winter 2012-2013, and a chair "Clay" of the Dutch designer Maarten Baas.
The Anti-Fashion Manifesto by Li Edelkoort.
As of 2015, Li Edelkoort writes his Anti-Fashion manifesto. Influential personality of fashion at the head of the Trend Union prospective office, she leads to questioning of all stages, from teaching to accelerating the rhythms of collections, from relocation to price when a "T-shirt is worth less than a sandwich. "She announces:" We are going towards a society of asceticism, it is a question of survival of our species, we know that we must stop. The whole system is to be reinvented, young people are pointing the future. It will be the time of a generation (...) Fashion is dead, not clothing. We must engage. Find the taste of work done with love. " She transforms the ground floor of her agency in the XIVth arrondissement into a gallery in order to share with the greatest number of his biases, his discoveries of designers. A first exhibition "The Gift to be Simple" reactivates the shaker movement in the design, which she puts in correspondence with Scandinavian craftmen or the New York brand Bode who makes patchwork jackets ! The space also resonates with meetings and conferences "Anti-Fashion"relay manifesto, organized by Stephanie Calvino. The latter, tired of "too institutional discourse of federations, without real actions on the ground" brings together the new actors of another mode "responsible".
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Katharine Hamnett, English designer of the eponymous brand, pioneer of an organic and ethical fashion, wearing one of her iconic message t-shirts.
A more ethical fashion
The voices of the pioneers of Vivienne Westwood and of Katharine Hamnett are amplified. As early as the 1990s, it closed its famous brand, and dubbed by Madonna and Lady Di, when she becomes aware ofenormity of the pollution caused by jeans, its favorite material - fashion is the second most polluting industry after oil. She launches, grazing bankruptcy, in the edition of organic t-shirts radical messages "Clean up or Die", "Choose Life". She continues today with her "Cancel Brexit" or "Choose Love" for the benefit of refugees. Vivienne Westwood has always made of his collections, his parades, supports to his "positive activism" - fight against pollution, deforestation, overconsumption ... . She is involved with many associations and signs his "AR Manifesto," Active Resistance to Propaganda ".
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Backstage of Vivienne Westwood fashion show, fashion designer and activist.
New shops concretize the commitments of these internationally known creators, at the initiative of a generation often less than thirty years old. The Textilerie is a mixed space, 130 square meters between "shop-coffee shop-recycling plantElsa and Alice, already founder of Estime Fashion Association (reintegration of people by sewing), consider the clothing in his past, his present and his future. They encourage to give the "forgotten closet" (about 200 € per English according to a study Weight Watchers), to repair the blunt ones, to marry two pieces to create a third one ... Even the least manual ones can mutate in Maroussia Rebecq, creator of the Andrea Crews label, the first to have hybridized and sublimated recovered parts !
La Textilerie, a new Parisian place between ethical brands such as SuperMarché, recycled fabrics, coffee and repair shops.
Other launch, the only vegan fashion concept store Manifeste011 moved under the impulse of binoculars Maud and Judith. The Anti-Fashion of Li Edelkoort and the documentary The True Cost push them to a questioning of clothing. By finding an alternative vegan, fair, traceable with sharp marks, like Wanda Nylon of Johanna Senyk, winner of the most prestigious fashion prize awarded by Andam (National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts), or Good Guys, vegetable leather by Marion Hanania. They re-enchant the consumption. Echoing the remarks of Stephanie Calvino - "the notion of consumption is linked to wonder, we have to remember it" - perhaps it is necessary to marry this question with that of usefulness, previously cited?
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Marion Hanania, creator of the brand of Good Guys vegetable leather shoes referenced in the brand new vegan Manifesto011 fashion store.
Kacie Tomita for Good Guys
Good Guys vegetable leather shoe brand referenced in the brand new Vegan Manifesto011 fashion store.
Kacie Tomita for Good Guys
Design gives pride to recycling
In terms of design, the 5.5 with "the sick objects hospital" had sensitized recycling issues. Recently, they offer the glass "Picardie" from Duralex, known to all canteens, seventy new uses, from the bird feeder to the painter's palette. This collective 5.5 designstudio does not claim a style like many designersbut a reflection: that there is no free object. "We hustled and provoked the world of design by systematically questioning our profession or, at least, our role in the creative process. We have thus instilled in our discipline values of ethics, responsibility, who have made our profession evolve and influenced many achievements of this turn of the century. "
The famous "Picardie" glass from Duralex reinvented for multiple uses by 5.5 designers.
A team of young graduates from Ensci (Higher School of Industrial Creation), nominated Rising Talents of Maison & Objet 2017, deprogram the obsolescence. Julien Phedyaeff and Christopher Santerre foment washing machine "The Pivot". She becomes durable, repairable and scalable. Source of hope when we know that each French represents more than twenty-one kilos ofelectronic and electrical equipment intended for the trash.
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Washing machine "The Pivot".
Mario Simon The Flower
Side architecture, the Circular Pavilion raise awarenesscircular economy - life cycle of a product, from its creation to its recycling which aims to increase the efficiency of the use of resources and to reduce the impact on the environment. of the doors from the rehabilitation of a building, or some Paris beach boards for the gratings of the terraceeverything is recovered. Built by the collective of architects Still happy, the building is presented during the COP 21 by the Pavillon de l'Arsenal. "Think more to consume less If there is no construction without materialsand therefore without destruction and consumption, there is no just and economical project without redoubled imagination. We consider not only possible but necessary the invention of other modalities of construction economically and ecologically sober and, as a result, rich in meaning and new imaginings. " Still happy will represent France at the next Venice Architecture Biennale 2018 with the project Infinite Places. "It deals with places that manage to accommodate the unexpected, offer free zones, integrate unscheduled uses, allow citizen ownership by focusing on collective energy and the desire for common."
The Circular Pavilion recovered by the collective of architects Encore Heureux.
food is not left out. She may even be at the beginning of everything. Robin Placet, from Foodentropie at the Château de Nanterre, exclaims: "We are fed up with sustainability, we are talking about a positive impact, from fork to fork, we are working for the food transition of new models." A place still with several heads that aggregates a vegetable garden Therapeutic "reconnect food to gardening" of nine hundred square meters, a restaurant "fast-good, self-service, self-payment", heads in residence, shared kitchens with United Kitchens, the largest culinary incubator in France! Still to imagine other virtuous systems and "a zero waste kitchenWe can extend the maxim "we are what we eat" to "we are what we consume." What if the consumer regains power? Li Edelkoort announces "a mental war with GAFA (Google, Apple, Facebook and Amazon), great influencers of behavior ".
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The Château de Nanterre and the new Foodentropie space, permaculture vegetable garden, another fast-food restaurant, chefs-in-residence, start-ups for a food transition.